It's the city with a reputation that extends across the world - there's nothing quite like it; built on stilts in the sea. An architectural splendour fighting against all odds to stay standing.
Listen to any Venetian long enough and they will tell you that the hordes of tourists packed onto cruise ships are literally flooding the city. And although we didn’t arrive by boat - I can’t help to feel some sense of responsibility. I think it’s because the city is SO special and I can’t bear the thought of it actually disappearing.
I was dubious at first. Venice had always had a Disney-esque feel to me. It seemed a little too kitsch - I mean singing Gondoliers in navy and white striped shirts and cane hats??
Plus, most of the tourists who travel there complain that “it's just too touristy” - ah the irony.
Waking early, and ordering a cafe Americano, we headed off to explore the city. As a general rule to apply in Italy - you can purchase coffee from anywhere and it will be good.
Our goal was to taste the city. Venetian food culture is surprisingly strong. It was a region that I somewhat overlooked in regards to cuisine. This is maybe because there are so many areas throughout Italy that hold claim to so many famous dishes, or it maybe because there is something special about everything else in Venice. Whatever it might be, it is misguided. Venice has a thriving and beautifully unique food heritage.
Seafood is (rightly) an incredibly important part of the Venetian diet. But they also manage to do hearty, rich, and decadent foods too.
Venetians are fast paced, and that's probably why cicchetti is so popular throughout the city. These mouthful sized bites are seriously good. You will find cicchetti in a Bácaro (they are Venice's answer to a tavern) and Bácaro’s are conveniently located everywhere. So order yourself some cicchetti with Bacala with a glass of wine called ombra - a famous combo in this neck of the woods.
A notable stop to try is All’ Arco. It’s a short walk from Rialto Bridge if you are using Maps… and a long walk if you’re not.
Now, if you are like us, and you want to capitalise on your stomach's capacity, a cicchetti 1st lunch, paired with a cicchetti 2nd lunch will do the trick. We opted for Osteria Al Portego (Castello San Lio, 6014). We recommend Fritto Misto de Mare, conveniently on a skewer to enjoy whilst standing.
Close by you will find the Rialto Fish Market which is an experience for all the senses. Here you will find FishMongers selling their freshest catches each morning to talented chefs and locals. It’s a fish market, so expect all the smells, and all the yelling, and be prepared to dodge wet fish being flung around. But this is the heart of Venetian food life.
I’ve mentioned Venice is a city of balance?
So if wet fish and seemingly grumpy fishermen is not how you would choose to spend an hour or so of your trip to Venice, then, at the opposite end of the spectrum but just as close to Rialto Bridge (just on the other side) is Fondaco dei Tedeschi. This high end department store is truly something special.
For those who love architecture and design, Fondaco dei Tedeschi is a 16th century Renaissance merchants' trading house brought back to life by Rem Koolhaas and OMA, and it is EVERYTHING you could hope for in a luxury department store located on Venice's premiere strip of real estate. No detail has been missed.
Slabs of marble have been expertly carved to look like tables with fabric draped across them. A series of arches wrapping around the main internal courtyard and repeated three levels high make it feel like you are in the Colosseum of department stores. Terrazzo, copper, brass, steel, a range of perfectly selected timber veneer - it's a perfect amalgamation of the most stunning finishes.
And we haven’t even begun shopping yet. Brands like Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Loewe and Valentino are naming only a few. A whole level dedicated to menswear and another dedicated to food - perfection.
Balance…
Shopping; old not new. People; humble not snobby. Prices; cheap not expensive. The next stop is only open on a Sunday, but it is worth making the time to go if your days fall correctly. Mercatino Dell’ Antiquariato in Campo San Maurizio is a beautiful little local market full of Venetian art and antiquities.
There you will find photos, paintings, jewellery, ornaments and books - a true Cabinet de Curiosities.
With a bit of broken Italian and some help from a local who was prepared to translate, we purchased a couple of originals from a local artist. Now proudly hung in our home as a treasured memory of our time in this beautiful city.
Of course when in Venice you will see all the main sites; Piazza San Marco and the Basilica, the Doge’s Palace, wander the tiny streets and possibly be tempted to ride in a gondola. My honest advice is to avoid this tourist trap… and if you’re still desperate to get a gondola fix, use the Traghetto which is used by locals to cross the Grand Canal for 2€. It is a slightly larger “gondola” with two rowers and it goes back and forth across the Grand Canal all day.
A little further abroad there are the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello
I’ve heard rumours of these islands but never experienced them for myself. Our 3 days in Venice gave us enough time for us to dedicate one day, jump onboard a vaporetto and make our way to all three. Nothing better than doing your own research.
Murano was our first stop. The island made famous for its glass blowing… and let me politely say, that is ALL that island does. It has been turned into a giant tourist trap. Unfortunately there is little that feels authentic about Murano. You can watch glass being made, but you will have to pay. You can of course purchase glass, but all of it is expensive - even when it doesn’t look like it should be. We spent about an hour on the island before we decided to flee elsewhere.
Quickly back onto the vaporetto we figured we could reach Torcello, have a wander around, and have lunch at a restaurant called Ristorante Villa 600.
Unlike Murano, Torcello was a heartwarming experience. The island has managed to preserve itself. Huge expances of farmland with little family cottages dotted throughout. And in the centre of the island, historic ruins. You can take your time here, meander through the ruins, go inside the little basilica, and chat to some locals (if you find them). It seems that most of the locals spend their time out farming… maybe? Maybe not? Maybe they were just enjoying this stunning island like we were.
Ristorante Villa 600 is one of only a few spots to eat on the island and we had earmarked the restaurant before we had left Australia. The restaurant is quiet and slow paced in comparison to busy Venice. The humbly restored country cottage is located on a beautiful property with a large grassed outdoor area. With a reputation for some of the best local cuisine in the area, we ordered as authentically as possible. Ravioli with Bacala, Wild Duck Ragu Gnocchi and Seppie in Nero con Polenta. All three dishes were incredible but the duck gnocchi is worth travelling for - probably even from Australia.
The staff will tell you what vino to pair with your meal, and it will be perfect.
After lunch we thought we would make our way to Burano - the three islands needed a decider round. Murano counted as a loss, Torcello a win…
Firstly, you can’t help but have an awkward little smile on your face as soon as you see the brightly coloured houses lining the canals of this island. From a distance, it’s very sweet. The island has the most going on out of the three. Lots of stores, lots of cafes and restaurants, and lots of lace. We spent the afternoon walking around Burano, and personally, I don’t think you need to dedicate much more time than that. The island has a very family friendly feel to it. Children are in the main squares kicking footballs to each other or darting past on bikes. Parents sit overlooking with a coffee in hand.
Burano is worth seeing if you pair it with Torcello. The two islands are (you guessed it)… perfectly balanced. Torcello is calm and quiet, and almost elderly or wise in its nature, whereas Burano is vibrant and loud, youthful and energetic.
I highly recommend doing the two on the same day. You will have plenty of time to enjoy how different and special these two islands that are only 5 minutes away from each other are.
Venice is special. It’s so much more than what I had expected it to be - it's more than singing Gondoliers in navy and white striped shirts, and cane hats . The city is poetic, it is passionate and beautiful. It is perfectly balanced; water and land, culture and tourism, opulence and decay… After all… it all has to balance for this city to stay afloat.